The Sober Sommelier @ Intelligentsia Lakeview


By Aaron Lawlor
aaronlawlor@gmail.com

It’s pouring outside and I had planned on visiting Chicago’s rainy day safe haven - The Art Institute.  But alas, my mind is set on task master mode and won’t slow down.  So, meditating in the Asian Art Wing will have to wait.  I’m setting out for one of my favorite spots to crank out some work - Intelligentsia in Lakeview.  

When you think of all the things that make up a great coffee house, this Intelligentsia location might seem to come up short.  However, when you add up the austere decor, hipster staff, eclectic crowd (who all seem super focused on their work de jour) and upbeat playlist (at a reasonable volume) - it all makes for a magnet environment to touch down, zone out and get shit done.

The decor is #basic with white walls, concrete floors and a mix of steel chairs and comfortable wooden stools.  Oh, and tables that remind me of high school science class.  You know, the ones with oak wooden legs and black, indestructible table surfaces that can withstand teenage shenanigans and Bunsen burners…or in this case, a steamy shot of caffeine.  It’s the lack of detail that lends the space to productivity.  When I was working like a madman, I would often hide out in satellite offices that were free of distractions - no papers on the desk, no secretary chirping with to-do lists, no knickknacks or photos.  Nothing but clean space, a laptop and a Moleskin notebook.  I feel the same about the Bunsen burner-proof table space.

The coffee this time was bizarre.  Let me preface this by saying I’ve had many-o good cups of Joe here and will continue to come back.  But, this time my coffee tasted and smelled like it was laced with miso soup.  After the first sip, I completed doubted my tastebuds.  So after checking to make sure I wasn’t having a stroke and cleansing my palate with my Topo Chico mineral water, I tried again.  No stroke and no joke - the coffee still carried notes of miso (thankfully without a green onion and tofu ganache).  

I didn’t get anything to eat this time, but in the past I’ve had the egg and ham breakfast sandwich which comes with a touch of aioli on a brioche bun.  It was egg-ceptional and something I would order again for a small meal to hold me over till dinner or for a post-workout chow down.  I’ve also had the Firecake donuts (I’m a sucker for an old fashioned chocolate frosted) and some of the assorted pastries.  All of which were very good.  My other favorite is the itty bitty dark chocolate bar which gives you just enough dark chocolate to balance out the bitterness of a stiff cup of black coffee.

As you might have surmised with the debut article, I have a small bladder and a knack for finding the cleanest and most comfortable public bathrooms in the city.  Intelligentsia in Lakeview has many admirable qualities, but the bathrooms are not one of them.  They’re a couple grades above gas station quality.  Their water closets are well put together with white, subway tile walls and a cool light fixture that has that glass reinforced with chickenwire, which reminds me of tornado drills in elementary school (odd, I know…I see my therapist on Tuesday, thank you very much).  More than anything, the bathroom could use a really good scrubbing and better ongoing maintenance.  Fortunately, it was clean enough that I didn’t have to blast my quads and execute a full-on hover.  You get my point.  

I can tolerate a dingy bathroom, but when it comes to electric outlets…like Captain Kirk says to Scotty in Star Trek “WE NEED MORE POWER!”.  This caffeination station is sparse on electric outlets with only a few spots to plug in at the corners of the seating area. 



One thing that didn’t go unnoticed is the coat hooks underneath the bar surfaces.  It’s a helpful touch that keeps coats neatly hung and maximizes available seating in this usually busy Broadway locale. 

While this review comes with a miso-glazed sour tone, Intelligentsia in Lakeview is one of my go-to spots.  I give it a “Sober Sommelier B+” for its usually consistent cup of coffee, good food menu, magnetic vibe and productive juju that keeps me coming back.


Intelligentsia in Lakeview 
3123 N. Broadway
Open: M-F 6:30 a.m. - 8 p.m. and S&S 7 a.m. - 8 p.m.

intelligentsiacoffee.com

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Aaron Lawlor is a freelance writer, talented public speaker and public relations expert.  Aaron is in recovery from addiction and shares his reviews of Chicago's best spots for coffee.